Week 2, Wednesday - Smoking and Jazz

Today we awoke to another clear day and decided to head back to the Cascade to see if the views of the city would be better.  We left the hotel shortly after 9:00 am and had a lovely walk across town.  Everything is so much quieter at this time of day - fewer cars on the street and fewer people on the sidewalks.  In short order we reach the Cascade and take the escalators up to the top.  We were correct, the views are lovely.  We can even see Mount Ararat in the distance.

After enjoying the scenery for a while we take the 500 steps to the bottom.  It is now shortly after 10am and unfortunately Mokka, the pastry cafe we so enjoyed on Sunday, does not open until 10:30.  Undaunted we head cross town to Cafe Central where I thoroughly enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, sunny side up - something that you are unable to get in many restaurants in Ohio due to concerns over salmonella.  Neil had pancakes stuffed with something I can't remember.  (If I don't write it down it doesn't stay in the brain for long.)  The pancakes were not at all like what we have.  These were a deep-fried dough - lighter than donuts, more like a cruller.  Whatever they were Neil enjoyed them thoroughly.

On a meandering walk back to the hotel, I watch the people on the streets and it suddenly hits me how fat Americans have become.  There are overweight people here certainly but they are the exception, not the norm. By and large the food I have been exposed to here is not particularly healthful or conducive to dieting -  butter and fats abound, chocolate is coveted, and so very many things are encased in dough.  Yet the people remain thin.  Yerevan is very much a walking city and I'm sure that helps.  Portion sizes are also much smaller than I am used to.  Perhaps that is the key.  In any event it is nice to know that Armenians will largely not suffer the ill health effects of obesity because the smoking surely is doing them in.  This is a HUGE smoking country with close to 60% of the male population smoking and 25% of the female.  I had forgotten what it was like to be surrounded by smoke everywhere you go.

Eventually we reach the hotel.  Neil gets changed into his 'bank' clothes and off he goes.

While he is gone I take the opportunity to do some hand wash.  I've already put this picture up on Facebook but it tickled me so that I am putting it here also.  This is a puzzle I am determined to crack.  Is there some Armenian word that this is translated from?  Do the Armenian letters for this look somewhat like our "barf"?  Or is it something else entirely?  This is the burning question I will ask of our hosts when we go out on our jaunts this weekend.

Tonight we head off to Malklas Jazz Club for dinner and some entertainment.  The club has lots of atmosphere with a lounge on the main floor which overlooks the 'basement' restaurant and stage.  We arrive shortly before 9:00 and order our meal just as the group starts to play.  I am initially pleased with the keyboard, drums and bass.  The keyboard player is particularly talented.  Unfortunately after a few numbers they are joined by a fellow playing a harmonica. Huh?  Where is the sax that was advertised?  Another number or two and they are joined by a singer who, in my opinion,  is not very good.  I liked 60% of the group unfortunately the other 40% was ruining it for me.  Perhaps the meal will rescue the evening.  Not so.  It was far and away our most expensive meal of the trip and the food was the worst.  In truth, the evening was nowhere near as bad as I am making it sound.  As always I enjoy the people watching and dessert was quite good.

In light of my comments earlier in this post, I should mention that the club had an extensive cigar menu which was well ordered from.  There were also hookahs available which were being used by a couple of people.

Again we had a nice walk back to the hotel.  So nice to be in a walking city and one that stays vibrant into the evening.